Corn snakes care sheet - Checked and approved by a vet

Corn Snake Care sheet

Elaphe guttata guttata

Colubridae

Life span: 10 to 23 years

Adult age: 2.5 to 3 years

 

Food

Corn snakes feed once a week. Always feed them the same day of the week so you create some rituals and habits they can rely on.

Never touch your snake’s food.The main sense of snakes is olfaction(or smell). If you touch their mouse and feed them with it, they may confuse your scent with the prey and this increases the risk of bite injury. Corn snake bites do not hurt. If it were to happen do not yank your hand, as their teeth are fragile and it could break them. Always move slowly and show your hand first when putting your hand in the tank, so your snake knows you are there and you are not a threat. Use tongs when feeding your snake, so your hands do not get in touch with the prey. You can also wear thin rubber gloves. It is recommended to feed your snake in a tub, outside its tank, as soon as it is used to you. Make sure it cannot escape. Never leave the feeding snake unsupervised.

Corn snakes feed on mice.

The babies feed on pinkies, i.e. new born mice. You then have to increase the size of the prey as the animal grows. It is better to feed a single larger prey than several small ones. As the animal grows, it will also be interesting to vary the size of the prey. A corn snake can have a mouse up to twice as wide as the middle of their body. If you fear a mouse might be too big for your animal, you can chop off its hind paws.

It is recommended for reluctant feeders to ‘brain’ the prey you offer to your snake. With a pointed knife, pierce a hole in the mouse’s brain, and cut off its nose, so your snake seizes its prey by the right end.

The mice you give your snake must be pre-killed and are best purchased frozen, to maintain hygiene. Mice caught in the wild might have been poisoned, or have parasites or infections. Live mice may also harm your snake, as captive snakes are less aggressive feeders than their wild counterparts and confinement with a scared rodent can lead to bites to the snake.

Do not feed two or more snakes together in the same tank or tub, as competition over food can lead to conflict. Every snake must feed on its own.

There is no need to supplement food items as whole prey will meet dietary needs of captive corn snakes. Provide clean water daily to your snake. Their water bowl should be thoroughly cleaned weekly and should never be empty. A single water bowl is adequate and should not be placed directly on or under a heat source as this will may lead to excessive humidity levels.

Mice and rats are a good staple diet for a corn snake although other appropriately sized small rodents can be offered. Do not handle your snake for 36 hours after it has fed. If you touch them after feeding, they may regurgitate, which might entail further health complications and veterinary costs.

Your snake must feed in a place at a temperature similar to its tank to avoid regurgitation

Snakes regularly shed their skin, i.e. they form a new layer of skin and remove their outer older layer of skin. Snakes often do not feed while shedding. They become paler, less active. A few days before shedding they become more colorful again. Then they shed. After shedding, your snake will be hungry.

Do not overfeed your snake. Obesity could seriously reduce its life expectancy.

Husbandry

Your corn snake needs a day temperature ranging between 20-22 C° at the cool end of its tank to 26-28 C° at the warm end of its tank.

Your corn snake needs a night temperature ranging between 18-20 C° at the cool end of its tank to 22-26 C° at the warm end of its tank.

To maintain an appropriate temperature in its tank, you can use heat mats underneath the tank, or an overhead lamp. All heat sources must be monitored with a thermostat and  heat bulbs and lamps must be protected with a guard, else your snake will climb on it and might get serious burns or injuries. You should always keep some spare heat bulbs in a closet in case of bulb failure.  Heat mats should be paced outside the tank to avoid direct contact, and the thermostat monitoring probe should be placed onto the base of the tank for accurate control.

The recommended size for a corn snake tank would be 122 cm length x 46 cm depth x 46 cm height. The minimum legal requirements are that the length of the snake should not be longer than the sum of the length and width of the tank but the tank can be much larger as long as temperatures are effectively maintained. You can start with a smaller tank, however you then will have to upgrade this as your snake grows. Make sure all the panels fit well together, that the doors close securely, and that the enclosure is well ventilated. There must be several ventilation holes (with coveringgrids) so that air inside the tank does not become stagnant. Ensure all vents are secure and will not allow escape. Equally, always make sure there is not any material in the sliding door grooves of the enclosure preventing proper closure, as your snake might push the door open with its nose. Ideally a pre-prepared set-up should be purchased with heat source, thermostat and accessories fitted. DIY attempts should only be carried out by experienced keepers. Never slam the door of their tank. Corn snakes are quick moving and prone to escape attempts and rushed closing could trap the head or tail.

Provide several hides in the tank, one in the cool end, one in the warm end and possibly one in the middle end for larger tanks. This allows your snake to select the desired temperature without feeling exposed. Hollow bark rolls, plastic flower pots with holes to circulate, cardboard boxes, commercial plant material houses (they are now available in every size so you can adjust it as your snake grows) can  all be suitable hides for your snake and you will certainly find some more. Make sure the items you introduce in the tank have not been treated with pesticides, that it is suitable for small animals, and that it does not contain any pine or cedar wood due to toxic residues.. Ensure all objects are thoroughly checked for sharp corners or holes that may allow your snake to become trapped. If you were to introduce items from the outdoors in the tank, place them first in the oven to disinfect them. There might be germs or parasites on it. Captive snakes live in a confined environment and are therefore more sensitive to environmental contamination.

You can provide climbing structures for your snake, so that it remains active and stimulated. Corn snake are naturally curious and active animals. Bamboo canes and branches can be used but should be well secured and have no sharp ends. As snakes are not necessarily agile in confined spaces it is best not to place these high in the tank to avoid injury from falls. The tank must be filled with a suitable substrate. This should maintain hygiene and allow burrows and microclimate formation, which corn snakes are very fond of. You can use aspen, reptile orchid bark, shredded paper or special reptile paper pellets. Aspen is a good litter as it is clean and allows your snake to burrow. Do not use wood shavings if you are not sure that it does not contain pine shavings Your snake’s tank should be cleaned at least weekly to remove faeces and damp bedding, and the substrate fully changed once a month.

You can clean the tank with tepid water and a clean sponge to remove organic debris. It is recommended to use a commercial reptile disinfectant to avoid build up of bacteria. Routine parasite treatment is not recommended due to potential side-effects of some treatments. If you suspect a parasite problem then seek veterinary guidance. Do not keep snakes of different sizes, ages or species in the same tank. It is not recommended to keep more than two snakes together in the same tank. If they are adults and of different sexes, make sure they are not related. Inbreeding is associated with many health issues and malformations that will cause distress both to the snake and its owner.

Handling

It is recommended to handle your snake for short periods (up to 20 minutes) every day (except when it has fed or is about to shed). This is the time you are going to bond with your friend and get them used to handling. It will learn to know you and you will learn to know him. It will also provide it with some exercise and avoid it getting fat and / or inactive. It is better to handle your snake while kneeling or sitting on a soft surface so if it were to fall it would not get hurt. This is a good time to visually inspect your snake too and check for any changes that may indicate health problems.

Snakes are very hard of hearing as they lack an external ear. However they perceive vibrations, and apparently also a few sounds. Some will get to know their name, especially if it is short and simple. It is not recommended to listen to loud music with your snake, as it may cause distress to your animal.

Do not smoke next to your snake: Smoke can cause respiratory irritation and nicotine is toxic to snakes.

Do not leave white bulbs burning late in the room where you keep your snake: snakes have no eye lids and cannot blink. Prolonged light can be stressful to snakes. If heat lamps are used as the heat source then a ceramic or infrared bulb is needed for overnight, to provide heating without visible light. A little tip would be to place an infra-red heat bulb as a light bulb in the room where you keep them. It fosters nocturnal activity and will allow you to see the most beautiful night scenes ever.

Shedding

Your snake will regularly shed its skin as it grows. Snakes grow all their life long. Its color will fade and it will become less active. It is recommended not to feed your snake while it is shedding. It is also recommended not to handle your snake while it is shedding. During this phase, your snake’s eye sight is very impaired due to opacity of the old spectacle, and any interference will unnecessarily scare it.

Holidays

You can leave your snake on its own for 2 days provided you make sure the tank and room temperatures are stable and they have got plenty of water to drink. If you are to be away for a longer period of time, it is recommended to have them checked daily, or use a commercial boarding facility. Many reptile pet shops do boarding. Make sure you book their place early enough. Do not entrust them to people you do not know well.

Breeding

Do not breed your snake before it is 3 years old, and always seek the advice of a vet prior to start breeding it. There is a lot of on-line material about breeding snakes. All snakes should be quarantined for a minimum of 3 months before mixing and a veterinary health check and disease screening is recommended.

Health

It is recommended to take your snake once a year for a check up to a specialized vet. Not all vets are experience with reptiles or have facilities to treat or hospitalize them, so it is better to seek those that have vets with further training. There are two reptile veterinary surgeries in Birmingham:

Manor Vets

373 Hagley Road
Edgbaston
Birmingham
B17 8DL

Tel: 0121 429 2829
Fax: 0121 434 4992
Email: manorcontact@manorvets.com

www.manorvets.co.uk/exotic-pets

The Halesowen branch is open 7 days a wAmicus

90 Marshall Lake Rd

Shirley

Solihull B90 4PN

0121 733 1439

[M1] It is recommended to have a special box or bag to safely carry your snake when going to the vet, or for it to safely wait while you are cleaning its tank. In colder weather a hot water bottle is useful in preventing your snake getting cold during journeys but the hot water bottle should be wrapped in a towel and not be so hot that it is uncomfortable to touch.

An animal friend is a long term commitment and this relationship should be carefully considered before purchasing any animal. However if for any reason you were not any longer in a position to look after your snake, do not forsake it. Bring it back whether to the shop or to the person who bred them.

Breeder’s e-mail:

vemarcou@yahoo.co.uk

Community

http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/

http://www.thebhs.org/

http://www.aretop.com/

On the latter web site, you can create your animal’s page and network with other animals lovers.

 

The redactor of this care sheet is not a member of the BHS, and is no qualified reptile specialist. However the present document has been checked and approved by a professional vet.

 

Many thanks to Mary and Catherine, from Manor Vets in Birmingham, for their kind assistance with this care sheet.